As we made our way through the estate, we could see the vineyards and the lavender bushes that surround the estate’s vineyards. We visited the estate’s cellars, the barrel (vat) room where the wines age for up to 3 years depending on the wine type, and the rest of the estate’s wine production facilities. We also visited the private tasting room, which offered a spectacular view of the estate’s vineyards and the surrounding lavender fields. The wines we sampled – every one of them – surpassed all of our expectations. Villa Poggio Salvi’s aim is to make traditional Italian wines more approachable to new world markets; hence Villa Poggio Salvi Brunellos tend to open up sooner than traditional Brunellos.

Villa Poggio Salvi: Estates

Villa Poggio Salvi has two estates: Poggio Salvi in Montalcino (the estate we visited) and Casavecchia in Monteriggioni. Both of these estates are ideal for growing wine grapes. The soil is rich in marl, while the breeze blowing from the Tyrrhenian Sea provides great ventilation, helping prevent rot and other vine diseases.

Poggio Salvi di Montalcino: Poggio Salvi is located on a Montalcino hillside facing the Tyrrhenian Sea (Mar Tirreno). This unique location plus its altitude (some 300 to 500 meters above sea level) gives Poggio Salvi its fresh and clean air. This has made Poggio Salvi or “Safe Knoll” a favorite refuge among the people of the Maremma region in times of plagues and epidemics.

In 1979, Pierluigi Tagliabue bought and started developing Poggio Salvi. Now, this area serves as Villa Poggio Salvi’s headquarters and houses Villa Poggio Salvi’s winemaking facilities. Poggio Salvi is also home to Dr. Luca Belingardi, who is in charge of Villa Poggio Salvi’s day-to-day operations.

Villa Poggio Salvi owns around 23 hectares of vineyards in Montalcino. All of these vineyards are planted with Sangiovese grosso grapes.

Casavecchia: Monteriggioni, like Montalcino, is located on a hillock and lies around 200 meters above sea level. Villa Poggio Salvi’s estate in Monteriggioni spans some 20 hectares of vineyards planted with Sangiovese and Merlot grapes.

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Villa Poggio Salvi: Winery and Wines

Villa Poggio Salvi knows the value of modern technology in wine production. To further improve its productivity and wine quality, Villa Poggio Salvi’s winemaking facilities in Poggio Salvi di Montalcino has been undergoing renovation over the past few years. The side of the hill on which Villa Poggio Salvi di Montalcino lies – even the land on which the Villa stands – has been extensively excavated in the spirit of modernization. Newly built structures now dot the landscape. Old buildings and facilities have also been revamped, restored or improved.

Villa Poggio Salvi makes DOCG, DOC and IGT wines.

DOCG wines

• Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino (red wine)

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino is made according to the winemaking rules of the Montalcino DOCG. It has two variants: Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino Annata and Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino Reserve.

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese grosso. To make this wine, Villa Poggio Salvi uses only grapes harvested from its best, southwest-facing Montalcino vineyards. The grapes for the Reserve come from vineyards 300 to 520 meters above sea level. The grapes for the Annata come from vineyards 320 to 480 meters above sea level.

After fermentation, Brunello di Montalcino Reserve undergoes 40 months of aging in Slavonian oak and 6 or more months of aging/refining in bottle. Brunello di Montalcino Annata, on the other hand, undergoes 30 months of aging in Slavonian oak and 6 months or more of aging in bottle.

• Villa Poggio Santi Caspagnolo Chianti Colli Senesi (red wine)

Villa Poggio Salvi Santi Caspagnolo Chianti Colli Senesi is made using grapes from the Villa Poggio Salvi estate in Monteriggioni. As the name suggests, Caspagnolo is made using grapes from the Colli Senesi (Siena) sub-area of the Chianti wine region and according to the Chianti DOCG appellation rules. Caspagnolo is 90% Sangiovese grosso and 10% Merlot. Before public release, Caspagnolo is aged briefly in Slavonian oak barrels then refined in bottle for about 3 to 4 months.

DOC wines

• Villa Poggio Salvi Rosso di Montalcino (red wine)

Villa Poggio Salvi Rosso di Montalcino, made according to Rosso di Montalcino DOC rules, is 100% Sangiovese grosso. This wine undergoes a shorter period of aging than the Brunello DOCG wine. Specifically, it is aged in Slavonian oak for 12 months then aged in bottle for 2 or more months.

• Villa Poggio Salvi Aurico Moscadello di Montalcino (white wine)

Moscadello di Montalcino is a Montalcino DOC wine that is steeped in history and tradition. Montalcino has been making this wine since the 16th century. The appellation accepts three Moscadello wine styles: still, sparkling or late harvest.

Villa Poggio Salvi makes the third type. Villa Poggio Salvi Aurico Moscadello di Montalcino is a late-harvest wine. This dessert wine is 100% Moscato bianco (white Muscat). Villa Poggio Salvi lets the grapes dry directly on the vines then, in mid-November, the withered grapes are handpicked then pressed. The must undergoes oak fermentation and the resulting wine is aged in oak for 2 years then aged in bottle for 6 months or longer.

IGT wine

• Villa Poggio Lavischio Toscana Rossi (red wine)

Villa Poggio Salvi Lavischio Toscana Rossi is 100% Merlot. It is made using grapes harvested from Villa Poggio Salvi’s vineyards in Monteriggioni. It undergoes 3 months of Slavonian oak aging and 5 months of bottle aging.

Other wines

Apart from the wines listed above, Villa Poggio Salvi also makes the following wines:

• Brut Rose Spumante: This pink sparkling wine is made using Sangiovese grosso grapes (100%).
• Vaio: This red wine, made according to the rules of the Morellino di Scansano DOCG appellation, is made using grapes from the village of Scansano. This Morellino varietal wine undergoes 3 to 4 months of bottle aging in Poggio Salvi di Montalcino cellars.
• Vermentino: This white wine belongs to the Toscana IGT appellation. This Tuscan white wine is made using Vermentino bianco grapes from Scansano. It is aged in stainless steel tanks, after which it undergoes bottle refining for 2 to 3 months.
• Tosco: This Toscana IGT red wine is 100% Sangiovese grosso, made using grapes from Villa Poggio Salvi’s Monteriggioni vineyards. It is aged in Slavonian oak for 10 months then refined in bottle for 4 months.

Grappa

Villa Poggio Salvi also makes its own pomace brandy or grappa. When Villa Poggio Salvi makes Brunello di Montalcino, the grape skins that remain after pressing the Brunello grapes are carefully screened. Only the choicest grape skins are used to make grappa; these are distilled at the Nannoni Distillery within 24 hours of pressing.

Villa Poggio Salvi makes two pomace brandy variants: Grappa di Brunello and Grappa di Brunello Reserve. Grappa di Brunello is a young grappa while Grappa di Brunello Reserve is a Grappa Riserva. Grappa di Brunello Reserve is simply Grappa di Brunello that has undergone 4 years of aging in French oak.

That’s it for now. Next stop: Tenuta Greppo – Biondi Santi.[1] Cheers!

And what do you know. It was a visit to Tenuta Greppo, the Biondi Santi Estate where I met with none other than the great Dr. Franco Biondi Santi himself. Now 88 years old, Dr. Franco Biondi Santi remains at the helm and still has final say on the Biondi Santi Estate’s wine production. For the benefit of those who don’t know, the Biondi Santi Winery makes superb wines. In fact, the 1955 Biondi Santi Reserve is one of Wine Spectator’s Top 12 Wines of the Century – and it is the only Italian wine on that list.

The Biondi Santi Estate and Cellars

Tenuta Greppo, nestled in the spectacular hillside of Montalcino, is more than a century old. It (and the rest of Montalcino) is part of Val D’Orcia, which was declared a “World Heritage Site” by UNESCO in 2004.

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[Word of advice: If you are ever in Val D’Orcia, beware of the Carabineers or the Italian Police!]

As we walked through the cellars that still echo the sounds made by winemakers past, our translator pointed out four old casks. He said they hold what’s left of Biondi Santi’s famed first vintages. Today, these vintages are still being used to “soulify” Biondi Santi’s 6-month-old wines. I was also shown the Biondi Santi’s valuable wine collection. The oldest vintage on hand is a Reserve 1888.

The Biondi Santi Topping Up and Recorking Ritual

In 1927, Biondi Santi started topping up and recorking estate-owned bottles of famous Biondi Santi Reserve vintages. By replacing the cork and topping up the wine, Biondi Santi ensures that its wine collection is correctly preserved and will always remain in perfect condition.

In 1990, Biondi Santi started offering its topping-up and recorking service to its clients. Every year in June, Biondi Santi clients can send back their bottles of famous Biondi Santi vintages to Tenuta Greppo. Dr. Franco Biondi Santi opens each bottle and checks the wine it contains for flaws. Any bottle that passes his inspection is topped up with the correct vintage from Biondi Santi’s own collection, corked with a Biondi Santi-branded cork and sealed with a red Biondi Santi-branded hood. It also gets a recorking certificate, proof that the wine is in a perfectly preserved state. On the other hand, any bottle that doesn’t pass his inspection (i.e. found to be flawed due to incorrect storage) is not topped up. It is simply sealed with an unbranded cork (minus the hood) and returned to its owner.

Owners of topped-up bottles are charged for every mL of wine used to restore the wine content to the correct level and for the time spent by Biondi Santi staff in the topping up and recorking operations.

Tip to Biondi Santi Wine Collectors

In my Biondi Santi visit, I was taught the proper way of enjoying Biondi Santi wines. Apparently, Biondi Santi wines should not be decanted in a traditional decanter. Rather, you should uncork it, pour out a small amount of wine (until the wine level is only up to the shoulders of the bottle) then let it set for 8 hours.

Cheers!

Just recently, I decided to take Bruno up on his offer. As I was rather unfamiliar with Cilento, I decided to stay a few days so I can acquaint myself with this former Greek “colony.”

Our journey started in the city of Naples, where we rented a car with which to make our way to Bruno’s winery. For those of you who have not been to Naples yet, forget everything you learned in driving school and trust your instincts instead. There’s no such thing as a red light or a stop sign in Naples – at least not to the locals, that is.

As we made our way out of the city, through the more rural areas of the Salerno province and on towards Cilento, the heart of Campania, the urban stress we felt gradually lifted and in its place, we could feel something similar to what Jaime Oliver must have felt while driving through Italy.

Cilento captivated and drew the eyes with its picturesque scenery, its beautiful coastlines and the endless rows of olive trees that dotted the entire Mediterranean countryside. As we drove up the hill road amidst Cilento’s olive tree plantations, we saw glimpses of the vineyards facing the Mediterranean Sea. In this part of Italy, Aglianico, Fiano d’Avelino and Falanghina vines, which thrive in the area’s hot and sunny climate, are the most common varietals. As we pulled into the De Conciliis Estate, Bruno and his dog were there to greet us.

The Viticoltori De Conciliis Winery was founded by Bruno’s late father in 1996 after Bruno convinced him to abandon their poultry business and go into the winemaking business, instead. Bruno and his family then left Milano, where Bruno worked as an architect, to go back to his hometown. I mention this because many of the Italian winemakers I have visited or will be visiting in the future have either inherited the business or have been in viticulture for generations.

Today, the De Conciliis Winery is very successful and its wines are sold in numerous countries worldwide. This success is probably largely due to the uniqueness of the De Conciliis family. Bruno’s approach to winemaking significantly differs from that of other wine makers. He constantly changes his winemaking techniques, continuously adapting them to the needs of the times.

The De Conciliis are also great jazz fans. In fact, they have a wine called “Naima,” a tribute to the song of the same name by John Coltrane. There is also a De Conciliis wine called “Selim,” which is a semordnilap of “Miles” (i.e. “Miles” spelled backwards) and a tribute to jazz artist Miles Davis. By the way, Selim, which is 70% Fiano and 30% Aglianico, is the first ever sparkling wine produced in Campania and quite probably its finest.

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The next morning, we set out to explore the estate. The beauty of the landscape and the friendly employees (most of whom are De Conciliis relatives) made our tour of the winery extremely enjoyable. Olive trees surround the De Conciliis Estate, and its vineyards share its side of the hill with olive tree plantations.

After our tour of the winery and after sampling Bruno’s latest vintages and blends, we headed to the fresh produce market to shop for the dinner party we were planning to hold in the estate’s tasting room that night. At the market, we got just-picked vegetables plus still-squirming fish and calamari (squid) fresh off the fishermen’s nets.

Back to the estate, I, Bruno and Dino Tantawi (president and owner of Vignaioli Selection, the NYC-based importer of fine wines) cooked on firewood stoves while jazz music played in the background. Meanwhile, our families mingled, chatted and sipped superb De Conciliis wines while waiting for dinner to be served.

Bon Appétit!

• At least 85% of Super Tuscan wines consist of grapes produced in Tuscany to receive IGT cassification
• The Super Tuscans’ winemaking process does not adhere to the local appellation law

View of Montepulciano, Tuscany

What does that mean exactly? Makers of Super Tuscan wines do not use Sangiovese as the dominant varietal. Instead, they use other wine grape varieties (mostly Bordeaux types) such as Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot. This makes Super Tuscans ineligible for DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) or DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) classification under the local appellation law. Nevertheless, Super Tuscan wines do qualify for IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) classification. Some of the most expensive wines from Tuscany are Super Tuscan wines such as Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia, Magari, Ornellaia and Picconero. Cheers!

All of the wines presented were native to (harvested/made in) the Campania region (Southern Italy), of which both Franco Nuschese and Bruno de Conciliis are natives.

(Larry Ruvo hosting the Franco Nuschese, Bruno de Conciliis lunch/dinner at SWS)

Nuschese Wines

Nuschese wines are not the type of wines that you will find in regular wine lists or in local wine stores.  They are made from less available grape varietals like:

• Greco di Tufo
• Falanghina
• Fiano di Avellino
• Aglianico
• Primitivo
• Primitivo di Manduria

The more readily available varietals or wine grapes used in making Nuschese wines are:

• Barbera
• Malvasia
• Moscato

Wine Reviews and Wine Tasting Notes

The Nuschese wines featured at the tasting were paired with a seven-course meal.  There were nine wines in all.  Two of the wines were served as an aperitif while the remaining seven were served with a specific course.  It was definitely a wonderful and innovative way of presenting wines.

The following are my wine reviews of the wines featured at the Nuschese wine tasting:

Il Sogno (Italian for Dream)

60% Fiano, 30% Malvasia, 10% Moscato

Served as an aperitif

(Franco Nuschese enjoying a glass of Il Sogno with a Mrs. Ruvo)

Wine tasting notes:  This sparkling wine, which is not a Prosecco, is made using the Charmat method, also known as the Metodo Italiano.  Unlike Champagne, it undergoes a secondary fermentation in the tank rather than in the bottle, after which phase it is bottled under pressure.

This wine has floral aromas with a touch of tropical fruits on the nose.  In mouth, the aromas open up to more floral notes, and you can notice “saltiness” due to the proximity of the grape vines to the ocean.  Refreshing and clean, with a smooth finish pulling more towards the acidity side.

Falanghina 2007 IGT

Falanghina

Served as an aperitif

Wine tasting notes:  This is a white wine with the aromas of lime, grapefruit rind, lemon, green apple, and lots of jasmine.  Very noticeable minerality giving way to the more tropical fruit side of this wine.

Greco di Tufo 2007 DOCG

Greco di Tufo

Paired with citrus marinated langoustine with zucchini, fennel salad and pink peppercorn olive oil

Wine tasting notes:  This is an aromatic white wine.  It has the aromas of melon, lime, bruised pear, and white flowers.  Fresh and lively, well-balanced with good minerality notes.  This has a wine style that you will not encounter often.

Fiano di Avellino 2007 DOCG

100% Fiano di Avellino

Paired with warm baby octopus salad with vegetable panzanella and Italian parsley pesto

Lucretia 2007 IGT

50% Fiano di Avellino, 50% Greco di Tufo

Paired with imported paccheri pasta with sautéed Maine Lobster, marjoram and fava beans in a light spicy cherry tomato sauce

Wine tasting notes:  This aromatic white wine has more complexity than the Fiano di Avellino.  Its aromas of green apple, melon rind and jasmine as well as its strong terroir attributes beautifully complemented the lobster.

La Pietra 2007 (The Rock)

50% Barbera, 40% Aglianico, 10% Primitivo

Paired with sautéed Monkfish ossobuco with Italian lake beans, pancetta and mussels guazzeto

Wine tasting notes:  This wine is called “The Rock” after Bruno de Conciliis.  It represents the more realistic side of life, as opposed to the Il Sogno (see above), which was named after Franco “the dreamer” or the visionario.

This red wine with medium plus acidity is very well suited to tomato-based dishes or even fish.  It has the aromas of red cherry, raspberry preserve, green pepper, plums, a hint of white pepper, and a touch of strawberry (typical Sangiovese characteristic); yes, indeed, this wine has a splash of Sangiovese in it.  Fruit forward with fruit tannins, no oak.  Long finish.

Taurasi 2004 DOCG

Aglianico

Paired with braised veal cheek with Jerusalem artichoke pure and baby vegetables

Cassius 2005 DOC

Aglianico

Paired with imported Italian Pecorini cheese with truffle honey and homemade radicchio jam

Wine tasting notes:  This wine is definitely unique.  After drinking it, you’ll think a small piece of vanilla bean was left on your tongue!  You can tell that this wine has had substantial oak contact.  New World wine style aficionados will surely love this wine.

MarcAntonio 2006 DOC

Primitivo di Manduria

Paired with chocolate chili cremoso with delicious rosemary berries compote

Wine tasting notes:  Very complex and sophisticated for a Primitivo di Maduria, this dark-colored, almost-black wine has the aromas of raspberry, blackberry, plum, spices, leather, dark chocolate, vanilla, and a hint of smoke.

What a feast!  I have to say that the wine pairing was executed flawlessly; the wine and the dishes were exceptionally well-matched.  I look forward to visiting the de Conciliis winery this summer and enjoying the wines on site.  I am sure that the trip will make for some pretty interesting posts in this wine blog.

That’s all for this wine tasting.  Cheers!

This is probably the last time that the Grape Nutz would be held at the Jones premises as SWS is thinking of taking the show on the road.  The turn-out at this particular tasting was the highest I’ve seen so far.  It was almost as if wine professionals from all over came to pay their respects, knowing that this could be the last time a Grape Nutz would be held at the SWS premises.

Italian Wines Galore

Moet Hennessy (MH) USA presented their portfolio of wines at the tasting.  New and old world wines alike were featured.  Seth Box, MH USA’s portfolio manager for Italian wines presented Ceretto, Capezzana, Monsardo, and Livio Felluga wines.  Seth used to be a winemaker at the Ceretto winery; this probably explains his passion for and extensive knowledge about Ceretto wines.

Wine Reviews and Wine Tasting Notes

The following are some of my Grape Nutz wine reviews and wine tasting notes:

Monsardo

Ceretto makes an interesting blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Nebbiolo) called Monsardo.  Each variety’s vinification process is carried out separately.  First they are fermented in steel for 12-15 days.  Next, they are transferred into barriques for malolactic fermentation.  Only after the malolactic fermentation phase has been completed are the wines blended.

Wine tasting notes:  The Monsardo has a rich bouquet of red fruits and displays a certain structure which is immediately noticeable in the mouth.  It has the aromas of strawberries, raspberries, fresh tobacco, and roasted coffee.  Oak (barriques) apparently plays an important role as the flavors of vanilla and spice are also present.  Well-rounded with mellow tannins, this wine is very enjoyable on its own.  It was actually the wine of choice for most of the people present at the Grape Nutz wine tasting.

2002 Wedell Cellars Edna Valley Chardonnay

Exhibiting his usual generosity, Ira Harmon introduced a few of us to another of his “special” finds.  He uncorked a bottle of 2002 Wedell Cellars Edna Valley Chardonnay.  After the wine was poured, we could easily discern by its color that this chardonnay is unfined and unfiltered.

Wine tasting notes:  On the nose, typical aromas due to new oak fermentation can be detected.  Oak, lots of toast, roasted hazelnut, butter, new leather, and other aromas all come together to create a popcorn (or stinky new sneakers) bouquet.  Overall, this wine is exceptionally well-balanced.  I was very impressed with this wine and I highly recommend it to anyone who lives by the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) rule.  Don’t expect to find this chardonnay at your local wine store, though; you will probably have to do a bit of research to find it.

Mezcal Santo Domingo Albarradas

Ira finished the evening by pouring us a glass of Mezcal Santo Domingo Albarradas.  This is a mezcal or a distilled spirit made from the agave (maguey) and named after Santo Domingo Albarradas, a town in the high Mixe region south of Oaxaca, Mexico.

Wine tasting notes:  This mezcal has the distinct aromas of citrus fruits and bruised pears.  It is more tropical in the mouth, with noticeable woody-spice aromas and a clean, dry finish.  This mezcal’s production is regrettably limited, however, as all transportation in the area where this mezcal is distilled is done through horses and burros.

That’s all for this wine tasting.  Cheers!

Gator Meat in a Wine Tasting; No Kidding!

One of Vin Sauvage’s sales representatives asked me if there was anything I found really intriguing in the tasting. Well, I had to be honest. The wines were really great – no surprise there – but it was the alligator meat that truly stood out.

As soon as I arrived for the wine tasting, I was served alligator meat. They did warn me that it was gator meat, but I did not take the warning seriously. I thought it was just a joke, you know? As I munched on, however, I realized that it was no chicken I was eating.

I don’t think I have ever had gator meat before this event. In truth, gator meat was not so different from chicken meat, but it was fattier and seemed almost like a hybrid of chicken and fish.

Now back to the really important stuff – wines.

Wine Reviews and Wine Tasting Notes

There were a lot of fine wines featured at this tasting, so I couldn’t possibly write wine reviews on all of them. As I usually do, I will discuss only a few of the wines I really liked. This time, moreover, I’ve decided to organize my favorite wines’ list by country of origin.

Wines from Italy

Italy was represented by no less than 16 different properties.

Fortediga Sodamagri

Wine tasting notes: Carlo Lavuri came all the way from Tuscany to present Fortediga wines, made by no other than Carlo Antonini’s son, Alberto. Fortediga Sodamagri, a 2005 Syrah from Maremma, Tuscany was the highlight of the Fortediga selection. Even though this wine is still young, it shows great structure, hence, great potential.

Selvapiana Vin Santo

Wine tasting notes: This dessert wine was a true delight. This wine, a 1999 blend of Trebbiano/Malvasia of Chianti Rufina, Tuscany, has golden amber tones and the aromas of dried apricot, roasted almonds, honey, and caramel. The Vin Santo is incredibly rich and complex but well-balanced with a lingering finish. It is very well-priced, too, considering the amount of work that goes into making this wine.

Wine from France

France was represented by an American. Yes, that’s right! His name is Bob, and his wine is called Vin de Bob, which obviously means Bob’s wine. Bob is a banker-turned-winemaker. This just proves that anything is truly possible these days. Bob makes a solid wine from Bergerac (Cabernet Franc), but only time will tell how Bob’s conversion to winemaker works out.

Wine from the US

2006 Cote de Crows

Wine tasting notes: Among the wines from the US, Morgan’s 2006 Cote de Crows caught my interest. This Syrah has a beautiful nose and is well-balanced. In the quality-to-price category, 2006 Cote de Crows is a great deal for all.

That’s all for this wine tasting. Cheers!